Jalie 2806 - Version 3 & 4 or Ding, Ding, Ding

Have you ever heard the definition of insanity? It's doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results each time.

Before we get into the coulda, shoulda, woulda's, let me explain why I chose not to do a traditional FBA and get on with my sewing.

High Bust: 38" (which puts me in a size U)
Full Bust: 43"
Waist: 37"
Hips: 46" (these three put me in a size BB)

It's my understanding that a FBA is designed to give you extra fabric for your bust without all of the extra fabric elsewhere. Here's the thing - I need all of the extra fabric, not only for the front but also for the back. But hey, if you know better than me please let me know. I'm totally willing to learn. Almost all of my sewing has been self-taught.

That said, here's what I did for Version 3. I traced off a size U and then shifted my paper upwards and over until the shoulder seam matched up with the shoulder seam with size BB. I then traced the armscye and side seam for BB.

But wait! That's not all!

At the hem line, I extended the side seam another 1" and then drew a line back up to the original (BB) side seam. I did a 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment, made basically the same adjustments to the back, and traced off a size BB sleeve and added 1/2" to the side seams of it.



It's close! But no cigar for me. The sleeves are still too tight for comfort and I need to do another 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment ( then remember to do the adjustment on the sleeves).

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The only reason I went on to make a Version 4 was because:

1. I had enough fabric leftover from Version 3, and
2. I was just this close to getting it right.

I pulled out the pattern pieces to do the necessary forward shoulder adjustment and found this tip for adjusting the sleeve to match. Here's what the sleeve cap looked like after doing the adjustment and you can also see that I added another 1/2" to the side seam at the bicep area.


It's a winner, folks! I may have over thought the process and re-invented the wheel, but it fits.